12/5/2023 0 Comments Arcade control panel partsX-Arcade Boards Each Support 28 Inputs In Any Combination (2 Joysticks + 20 Buttons) See Default Config Here.X-Arcade™ Build Your Own Arcade Features.NOTE: Includes most recent trimode electronics. Easily USB and multiple-console support to your existing device! This USB PCB can also be used to upgrade legacy/older model 2 Player Arcade Controllers like Hanaho Hotrod Joystick, Arcade PC or Slikstik. This kit includes all the cables, wiring and instructions you need to make your own arcade. (arcade wood not included) Just connect these electronics to your arcade machine joysticks/buttons or any electronic source for instant play! Imagine having your own arcade machine setup in under an hour. With the X-Arcade™ Build Your Own Arcade Kit, you'll be able to inject the classic, nostalgic arcade experience in your home instantly and effortlessly. Newly designed board circuitry provides un-rivaled performance and speed.ĭesigned to meet the demands of Arcade Enthusiasts, the BYO kit exhibits master craftsmanship with uncompromising attention to detail and quality. No more issues with pressing the num-lock key as this new board uses the actual arrow keys (not num-lock keys) This ended up being a simple fix with a DIY 6 pin harness from Radio Shack (see parts list for hyperlinks).This latest-revision PCB features a new chip design which can handle 12 simultaneous inputs/key commands and 3 additional using the modifiers (CTR, ALT, SHIFT).Ĭhange Modes Without Pressing Load Buttonĭue to feedback from customers, we removed the requirement to press the load button to change modes (which could be difficult if your controller or PCB is mounted in a cabinet) The one snag I did have was getting the trackball wired up, as the harnesses weren't even close to being the same. It would be very advisable to purchase a few extension harness packs as well. Here's a link to the wiring diagram for the Mini-PAC. If you purchased the Mini-PAC and wiring harness from Ultimarc, wiring everything is very easy as well. Mounting the buttons, joysticks, and trackball was very simple and straight forward. I didn't take any pictures of the component installation and wiring. The whole top can then be mounted to the base, and component installation can begin! After the t-molding is installed, turn the top panel over and mount the piano hinge. using the utility knife, I cut chunks out of the insert part to make the rounded corners, and this seemed to work very well. Next, apply the t-molding to the sides using either a mallet or hammer and scrap wood. You can now apply the plexiglass top to keep the decoration looking pristine. Notice how the sunken t-nuts got covered up. I used diamond plate vinyl for that good old-fashioned industrial look. If you have a dremel tool, it works wonders to adjust any cuts or holes.Īpply your decoration over the top panel, and use a utility knife to carefully cut out all the mounting holes. Get a large starting hole going in the middle of it, and S L O W L Y cut out the shape with a jigsaw. Do this for any smaller mounting holes as well using the proper size drill bit in reverse. It literally just melts right through it, leaving a perfect hole and edge. I found using the hole saw in reverse to be the way to cut out the holes in the plexi. Lexan would be the next step up, but at over 3 times the price of regular plexiglass, I just couldn't justify it. It's a few bucks more than regular plexiglass, but WAY stonger and much more forgiving. This was my first experience with the high impact plexi, and I'm absolutely sold on it. I used scrap MDF as a bottom layer and sandwiched the plexi in the middle, using bar clamps to secure everything. Once your top panel has dried, use it as a guide to cut out the plexiglass top. After all parts were constructed, I put several coats of cheap black spray paint on everything. I didn't take any pictures of the body construction and won't go into much detail about it, as it's pretty straight forward.
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